A guided hike through the Rätikon. On the trail with annawandert.

Anna Engstler
Oct 26
3 min read

Four days, three huts, two peaks – and a group that didn't let the weather get them down. I hiked in the Rätikon Mountains with Uwe, Sigi and Timo in August. The rain came and went, the fog often persisted, and yet every day was amazing in its own way. I like this rugged side of the mountains – it shows that something special doesn't always have to be in the sunshine.

Thursday, Day 1:

Lünerseebahn valley station – Böser Tritt – Gamsluggen – Totalphütte

The start of my guided hike through the Rätikon sounded wild: Böser Tritt . In truth, the first climb from the valley station of the Lünersee cable car over the Böser Tritt to the Lünersee wasn't as bad as the name suggested. The fog, however, persisted; the Lünersee was barely visible, lying there mystically. We had to postpone our original destination, the Schesaplana (2,965 m), because by then it was pouring with rain. So, Plan B: We hiked to the Gamsluggen, cast a glance over to Switzerland, heard cowbells in the fog – and returned to dry land, to the Totalphütte .

Friday, Day 2:

Totalp Hütte – Verajoch – Schweizer Tor – Lindauer Hütte

Snow on the Schesaplana – and in August! So, once again, the four of us were denied the joy of reaching the summit. Instead, we had an impressive route ahead of us: over the Verajoch, the Schweizer Tor (my personal highlight) and the Öfapass, we headed towards the Lindauer Hütte. The fog lifted occasionally, and we enjoyed a few warming rays of sunshine (and a schnapps). At this point, thank you, dear Timo, for carrying the bottle. We encountered marmots again and again on this stage – whistling, curious, and completely unimpressed by us.

The Lindauer Hütte welcomed us with a cozy atmosphere, a warming sauna, and excellent food. Mobile phone reception? None at all – and it was precisely this combination that made it so special.

Saturday, Day 3:

Lindauer Hütte – Golm – Rellstal – Heinrich Hueter Hütte

The third day brought: the Alpkul Tour trail in the fog, encounters with stubborn horses in the fog, alpine meadows in the fog, a stop at the Alpengasthof Rellstal when the fog has lifted a little – and finally a leisurely walk to the Heinrich Hueter Hütte. Once at the top, after enjoying Kaiserschmarren (sweet pancakes), the weather allowed for another hike. So, three of the four first went up to the Saulajoch. Then over to the Gipsköpfle (1,975 m), the first summit of our tour, which finally gave us the panoramic view we had been missing.

Sunday, Day 4:

Heinrich Hueter Hütte – Lüner Krinne – Südlicher Schafgafall – Lünersee

And then – finally, the sun! Even at first light, the day showed its best side. We stood on the terrace of the Heinrich Hueter Hütte, coffee in hand, and watched as the sun slowly rose behind the mountains. From the hut, we headed over the Lünerkrinne towards Lünersee. But we weren't done yet: the southern Schafgafall (2,414 m) lay so invitingly before us... Steep, challenging, but worth every effort – a worthy conclusion with panoramic views. Arriving at the Douglass Hütte, we toasted our trip together – four days, three huts, two peaks, and one group.

And my conclusion?

The hike through the Rätikon gave us a closer look at the mountains in many different ways: varying weather conditions, interesting encounters, brief lows, quiet moments – and the powerful feeling of having achieved something together. My three companions and I hope we won't soon forget these days of hiking, will we, Sigi, Uwe and Timo?